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Early Clock Striking "Click" to Login or Register 
posted
Hi guys, I have a few clocks that chime 1 and 2 minutes, respectively, early. One is an Ansonia Mantel and the other is a Chelsea Ships Bell. I just rebuilt the Ansonia but have always ben told that the canon wheel has to be moved to account for the discrepancy. I would rather not disassemble the clock and I wont attempt the Ships Bell. Any tips?

Regards,

Brian
 
Posts: 130 | Location: Southern Mississippi in the USA | Registered: February 25, 2007
IHC Member 1291
Picture of Buster Beck
posted
You may want to try this; take the minute hand off and examine it where it attaches to the clock. The older ones were solid construction and not adjustable, but the newer ones have a bushing that can be forced to turn with some pressure from a screwdriver, just be careful as it's always a possibility you could break the hand.

OR; It may have a "J" shaped lifting wire that could be bent ever so minutely if it is striking early/late.

regards,
bb
 
Posts: 6376 | Location: Texas in the USA | Registered: July 27, 2009
posted
Thanks Buster, this is definitely an older one. I will have to take a close look at the lifting wires. I may be able adjust slightly. The Ansonia is only off 1 minute, but my OCD is kicking in. I guess 1 minute is not bad for 100 year old or so clock.

Regards,

Brian
 
Posts: 130 | Location: Southern Mississippi in the USA | Registered: February 25, 2007
Life Member
posted
Can't help with your Chelsea, but in the Ansonia, take a look-see at the wire on the hour arbor, that lifts the J hook. Often, when someone tries to set the hands backwards at the change from Daylight Savings time to standard time, before they stop, realizing they can't do that, they slightly bend or loosen the wire that lifts the J hook, so that it is no longer parallel with the arbor. That is usually just enough to throw the strike out of time by about a minute or so. If I remember correctly, that wire is passed through the arbor, and riveted on the back side. You may have to push it back where it belongs, and tighten the riveting with a few judicious hammer taps.(BE careful not to flatten the arbor! (I use an automatic center punch, with a small piece of square steel key stock between the point of the punch and the rivet. The automatic center punch gives me more control over how hard I strike the rivet, and over where I put the point of contact.)
 
Posts: 213 | Location: Westminster, Maryland in the USA | Registered: March 02, 2015
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